THE CAPSHAW COLLECTION OF FINE FIESTAWEAR, ADDENDUM 14
It's that time of year again, time to consider "What am I going to wear to La Fiesta de Santa Fe this year.....
Our fashion show begins with a Santa Fe girl who has been in Santa Fe for 98 of Zozobra's 100 years.......Alice Montoya! My mother is modeling a "two-piece", creme colored, raincloth, homemade, full circle skirted, outfit with skads of copper colored ric-rac and braid. She teamed it with copper jewelry and a copper belt and a caramel colored shawl with copper embroidery. This dress earns a rating of four stars**** for condition and worksmanship--it is just a little short on individuality to earn all five stars (only complete, true "Squaw"/Fiesta Dresses are rated) Alice, herself rates TEN STARS**********always!!
At Christmas time, Chiara is modeling a two piece, bitone, raincloth, homemade, full circle skirted, dress in candlelight and warm brown. The trim is gold, creme and brown ric-rac and braid. Except for Kiki, there is just no pizzazz here--three stars ***.
This year we were blessed with donations to the collection from several kind benefactors. One of those benefactors is a dear friend, Joann Schutz, who donated several outstanding outfits made by Mrs. Evelyn Apodaca for her daughters and herself in the 1960s and 1970s. Our model, Jenny, is SITTING PRETTY IN CALICO in this two-piece, light cotton full-circle skirted dress in a tangerine color with a white calico pattern that is so tiny it is barely visible in the photo. The high neck gives the outfit a prairie effect and the trim is all white lace. Four Stars****
This year we had our one-day Photoshoot at Buffalo Thunder Resort. Unfortunately, some of the resort's magnificent artwork is too large to include both it and a photo of a model with enough detailing to see the outfit. Behind me is a spectacular rendition of Native American Dancers in stained glass and even though you can't see it in entirety here, you will see a better photo in the ETCETERA portion of this posting. This bitone, raincloth, two-piece, full-circle skirted dress is trimmed with silver and turquoise ric-rac and braid. I am wearing a silver and turquoise belt and Zuni in-laid jewelry with an Owl motif--and a charro hat. Because this particular pattern was in common use in the 1950s and 1960s and is not so distinct, this dress rates four stars ****.
Angelica sets off her Mexican inspired Fiesta outfit against one of the stacked-stone walls of Buffalo Thunder. Her bright red Mexican peasant blouse and silver belt set off the colorful floral full-circle skirt trimmed with lace. She also added a layer of bright red petticoat and a Mexican corona of white flowers to complete a totally festive look.This year we were blessed with another splendid donation to the Collection--Peggy Gonzales, one of Santa Fe's best know purveyors of Fiestawear, and her husband Mike donated several lovely outfits including this homemade, heavy cotton, two-piece, full-circle skirted, dress in a color I have never seen in a fiesta dress before--APRICOT! This dress is not gold nor is it orange or pinkish, it is APRICOT! My Bianca is modeling the dress that is festooned with turquoise, brown and white ric-rac and braid with a white stone concha belt and a straw hat for a little summer whimsy. While it makes lovely streetwear anytime, I think the skirt could us more trim for Fiesta excitement--Four stars ****
Yes, goddesses do still roam the earth....here Emelina models a portion of a donation from another very wonderful friend. Josina Martinez used to wear this Mexican Chiapas embroidered outfit at profession and international banquets and functions in her professional life before retiring and donating it to the Collection. Emme teamed it with one of her own bustiers, She also made the fantastic floral corona she is wearing..........
And what about the matching top? Emelina's lovely mama, Leonora Lopez, wore it to Zozobra along with a turquoise belt and silk screened skirt! Fabulous and Fabulous!
And more Chiapas magic--Renata Woo models her long Chiapas skirt and shawl alongside a Buffalo Thunder Corn Maiden. While taking the photo, I asked for a little "attitude"--my granddaughter conjured up MORE than a little......
A throwback to the MexItalian outfits of a few years back, this EXVOTO Italian crafted dress is perfect for a day up in Georgia O'Keffe country. (Here at the Morada at Abiqui) It is worn with Mexican Milagro jewelry and a felt Gaucho hat that proved too droopy to generate an "O'Keefey" vibe. (Photo by Waymon Whittemore)
Up close to appreciate the Milagros being worn and the milagro patterned material of the dress. (Whittemore Photo)
From the Apodaca grouping, it is my most desired wish to get into shape by next year and to be able to fit into the tiny waist on this avocado colored, light cotton, two-piece, full-circle skirted, Mexican lace trimmed dress with silver buttons on placard and sleeves. Jenny looks great in this dress that because of the short skirt I suspect is from the late 1960s or early 1970s. Because it is too little for me and because I am a brat--four stars****. If it fits next year, five stars!The comely Miss Sylvia is modeling an all beige lace outfit (which this photographer managed not to depict--it will be modeled in next year's edition), but what is very well depicted is this gorgeous Spanish Shawl. I think I mentioned last year that older Santa Fe ladies often called these shawls "Manilla Shawls" and I suspect that since the Philippine Islands have long been under the influence of Spain, it is quite possible that the shawls that made their way here may have come from the west instead of the much longer route from the east. Although the design on this shawl is reminiscent of the local Colcha Embroidery designs, this is surely a machine-embroidered shawl that is just dripping with gorgeous fringe.
AN INTRIGUING COMBO--I tried manipulating the color on this outfit to indicate that both the stretch top and the cotton skirt were actually an unusual chartreuse color. The homemade heavy cotton singleton skirt features tiny blue, chartreuse and white ric-rac and gold braid. Angelica teamed it with her distinctive silver belt.
Angelica humored me by adding this intricate Seminole apron that I purchased from an Indian Trader. We topped it with a felt hat with a beaded hatband.
Our lovely model, Sarah, has a smile as bright as this sunny indoor pool area at Buffalo Thunder in this phenomenal dress! While the top is rather plain, the skirt is resplendent with 33 rows of ric-rac, lace, and braid in shades of silver and white. The heavy cotton skirt is a full circle. If it does not look like that many rows of trim, it is because a lot of the trim is white. In person, because of the intricate pleating, the white trim provides a textural element .It also weighs about 14 pounds. In respect for the hours of diligent work by the maker--FIVE STARS!*****
On Zozobra night, I was thrilled to wear this dress that was a birthday present from my "California Family"--the Woos! This cotton, full-length, homemade, paisley dress in a brilliant French blue features a full-circle skirt and black lace and sequin trim. I wore it with a French blue leather gaucho hat. With all this fabric and trim, the dress weighs almost twenty pounds! FIVE STARS *****
Up-close and personal, you can see the affect of (what I consider an almost sartorial oxymoron) BLACK SEQUINS! Never have so many, struggled so hard for so little.......
Liberty models an outfit that a lot of modern gals have been waiting for.......This "Designed by Hester, Santa Fe, NM" skirt is long overdue. Hester, who is I guess, a local girl, probably got tired of finding all these absolutely gorgeous fiesta outfits and finding out that most of them were made for ladies of another era when the average Santa Fe woman was considerably smaller in stature than today's generation. What Hester did was to take the waistband out of lovely skirts like this raincloth tri-tone full-circle skirt with gold ric-rac. She then attached the less pleated skirts to tops cut from larger sized stretch jeans. It made for a longer and looser skirt that statuesque ladies can match with other tops (Because the older tops are also very tiny.) Liberty teamed it with her own bustier that is so ooo-la-la that I will be heartbroken if I find out it's not from Paris, France! She also chose a gold concha belt and gold jewelry! OOO-LA-LA!
A CLASSIC! Bianca is modeling a "Gans of Old Santa Fe" bi-tone, raincloth, full-circle skirted ensemble with silver and turquoise ric-rac. Because my Grandfather was a career-long employee of Gans, I have an emotional tie whenever I find one of these dresses from the 1950s. I like to think that some of the seamstresses like our friend Fessie Longacre or my friend Annabelle's mother, Mrs. Espinosa, helped complete these meticulously crafted and pleated survivors of days gone by. Bianca teamed it with a silver belt and shell jewelry from Santo Domingo!. My late husband's mother owned a dress in this pattern, but only the skirt has survived. Five Stars *****In the autumn, I am modeling another item that" Gans of Old Santa Fe" was famous for: a Chimayo woven blanket jacket. However, this is not an original--way out of my price range! This is a modern version by "Golden Collection, PIONEER WEAR". It is made with a softer wool blend fabric and in a Bomber Jacket design, but the Chimayo Weaving is under my hair on the placards and.....
In the back where the more costly weaving is sewn atop the rather standard jacket.
Another dress from the Peggy Gonzales gift--Sarah is modeling a light cotton, two-piece ,tri-tone, full-circle skirted dress with turquoise ric-rac. There is no braid, the main interest in the dress is from bands of printed fabric and intricate pleating. The color is also a refreshing lemon yellow. Four stars ****
Another New Mexico crafted item of apparel, this hand dyed and hand burned silk velvet ruana was purchased at the Dixon Arts Market. I am wearing it with a crocheted lace ruffled Spanish blouse and a cowboy hat.
Chiara at Christmas teamed this light cotton full-circled skirt with lace trim with a sheer black blouse trimmed with silver buttons and boots.
HOW TO MAKE AN ENTRANCE! Jenny is modeling a very beautifully trimmed homemade, raincloth, pleated, full-circle skirt with lots of silver ric-rac and braid. She teamed it with a "Southwest Canyon" woven vest and boots.
FIESTA DRESSES DON'T GET ANY MORE ADORABLE THAN THIS! Isa models a mid-weight cotton, homemade dress from the Apodaca collection. .Because I have never seen any other Fiesta dresses in this pattern, I think Evelyn Apodaca designed this dress which probably no other girl in Santa Fe had for a Fiesta probably in the 1960s (because of the length) It has white silver and pink ric-rac and braid. Isa teamed it with turquoise jewelry. FOR ORIGINALITY, FIVE STARS *****At Indian Market last year, I purchased this traditional black Pueblo manta and ribbon skirt for Renata. She chose the headress with the antlers because she thought it looked like a "deer dancer". This photo was taken the night of Zozobra.
I also purchased a black manta for Leona, but she protested "I NEED two sleeves!", so she wore her ribbon skirt with a Mexican peasant blouse. I was able to snap her in moccasins before she ditched them also.
The "girlies" at Zozobra! No, they did not drink those boxes and boxes of cerveza.......
At Abiqui Lake, this is what I would call a "working Fiesta dress". By that I mean that it is really not all that fancy with green, black, brown and yellow ric-rac and braid--none of it metallic--it could have been worn to office or school at times other than Fiesta as many ladies and girls did in the past. The comfy well-worn feel of this two-piece, raincloth, full-circle skirted dress makes me feel that it got lots of wear even at other times of the year. Despite how much I love it, I can only give it three stars for condition problems. *** (Photo by Ed Curley)
Upclose of the beaded hat and hatband from Isleta Pueblo that I purchased at a winter market, and a Charles Johnson necklace....(Curley photo)
ANY CABALLERO AT THE FERIA DE ABRIL IN SEVILLA WOULD BE THRILLED TO SEE THIS LOVELY LADY DESCEND THE STAIRS TO RIDE WITH HIM AT THEIR FIESTA! Zoila is wearing a "Juan Foronando, Francos 10, Sevilla" heavy cotton dress trimmed with lace and ribbons. This style was standard fare at the Feria for many years, but in recent years, the ladies have adopted the elongated Flamenco silhouette
Emelina teams Mexican Resort wear with a Spanish pineta for this classic silhouette. This "L'Atiste by Amy" ensemble can easily go from poolside to nighttime wear."One day she’ll flash and send you crashing through the ceiling!".... Liberty in the "big girl" version of the same Mexican velvet outfit! She teamed her skirt with her amazing bustier, a sequined bolero and a fabulous sombrero!
Zoila in an off the rack at Ross combination of a ruched off-the-shoulder blouse and three tiered long skirt. With her cowboy hat in hand and a silver belt--adventure awaits.....My nephew, Raphael, graces the lobby of Buffalo Thunder in a Rhinestone Cowboy shirt and a "Silver Spur B bar H" cowboy hat. He is also wearing a leather belt with a silver buckle.
Where there are cowboys there are usually also cowgirls! Emelina is the perfect Chara in her maroon silk "Longhorn by Niver Western Wear" set of a blouse with very chic vertical silver buttons and the three tiered pleated long skirt. She is wearing a totally beaded belt and a Charro hat from Peru and is seated on a banco in the Buffalo Thunder lobby beside what appears to be a stone river.....
.Enroute to dinner at one of Santa Fe's oldest Restaurants--THE PINK ADOBE, San Miguel Mission is a backdrop for this somewhat fancy Mexican lace street length, cotton, embroidered dress. (Photo by Ed Curley)Close-up of the fabric demonstrates, that for a more festive look, I should have word a pink slip because the open-weave lace allows the color of the slip beneath to be seen.
CAPTURED IN A PENSIVE POSE, Leona wears an outfit by "Great Pretenders, Creative Education of Canada". Without the services of the many seamstresses--both professional and amateur--that we once had in Santa Fe, it is difficult to find authentic Fiesta clothes for the girls. I saw these costumes (which consisted of a floral skirt and peasant blouse and Mexican corona) on a rack at a local shop and New Mexicanized them with a Spanish shawl. The shawl proved victim to a rambunctious young lady, but I find her most fetching anyway....
Renata proved much more professional in her posing, but the printed lace shawl again ended knotted up at the neck, With that face, a young model can get away with anything.......
On a brisk spring day, a gift from my sister, Sylvia, this woolen embroidered Mexican Jacket proved to be perfect for lunch at the iconic LA CHOZA! (Photo by Gloria Mier)
Back view (Mier photo)
Another Peggy Gonzales gift, this cocoa-colored, heavy cotton, homemade, full-circle skirted, two-piece dress sports turquoise, coral, and white trim and braid. Bianca wore it with boots and a white stone concha belt. ***
Taken at Plaza Blanca, this singleton cotton Fiesta top from the Peggy Gonzales gift, with red, green and gold braid proves my contention that Fiesta tops make great companions for blue jeans. (Photo by Waymon Whittemore)
In the winter, the same dress is perfect by an open fire in the La Fonda lobby. It is worn with a "Preston and York" buckskin jacket with leather lacing. (Photo by Waymon Whittemore)
The fascinating thing about this outfit is that I bought the buckskin jacket at a garage sale and about an hour later, I found the "J.R. Palacios, Hecho en Mexico" hat at the Valdez Antiques Market. The jacket and hat both have matching colored buckskin and black leather lacing. (Whittemore photo)
A MOST FETCHING PAIRING! Zoila is wearing an Otomi Indian embroidered blouse from Mexico with an embellished skirt with ribbon bows from Mexico. She is also wearing a corona from The Day of the Dead from Oaxaca.
Angelica relaxes poolside at Buffalo Thunder in a bright wrapskirt by "Creaciones Mexicanita, Monterrey" and a very exciting sombrero.
In the springtime I posed beside our flowering tree in this lovely bi-tone. two-piece, raincloth. full-circle skirted dress by "Phoenix, Marga Originals" sold at "Frontier Fashion Porters. Tucson, Phoenix".
I wore the dress with copper jewelry and a copper belt to match the trim. I was so excited with the design and the quality of the dress (FIVE STARS *****) that I declared it my NEW FAVORITE! I knew I had already purchased "Marga" dresses in the past and so I decided to check them out and found that..........(Photo by Giancarlo DiPalma)
This dress I modeled ten years was the same pattern in different colors, but with the same Marga quality of design , and....(Photo by Dwight Capshaw)
This dress that I modeled last year is also the same pattern in another color pallet but also definitely a high quality dress! I now say THEY ARE ALL MY FAVORITES! (Photo by Bethany Pino)
From the Apodaca Collection gifted by Joann Schutz, a dress that took my breath away.......An original design, the one-piece, medium-weight cotton dress with copper and turquoise ric-rac and braid and a three ruffle skirt is by far the most original dress in my collection! Isa teamed it with a coral shawl and turquoise jewelry--THE BEST! Five stars *****
The cover design, this is a Mexican wrap skirt that has a label that says "Pintado a mano.LAVABLE, Hecho en Mexico". I know that is mainly instructions for care etc., but I checked the skirt looking for a signature because on hand painted clothing sometimes the artist will sign his/her name, but I found no signature. The skirt is also generously embelished with scattered sequins.
ANOTHER GOLDEN GIRL! Jenny is wearing a gold colored crocheted two piece ensemble with embellishment with sequins on some of the crocheted flowers, She embellishes the dress, herself, with a fringed Spanish Shawl and a gorgeous big smile.
At Spanish Market, Rachel sports a "Faye Creations, 'Patio Fashions' Tucson, Arizona" two-piece dress with only gold braid in intricate patterns for trim. This is an interesting dress in that it is made out of a heavy wool like fabric--perhaps for winter wear? The skirt is also not full. A unique design. For originality--FOUR STARS ****.
A close-up of Miss Rachel--my camera is not high quality enough to depict much detail and in the first picture, it may appear that Rachel was crying....and even though this close up is not much better, you might notice that she was wearing a delightful spray of glitter freckles!
At El Rancho de las Golondrinas in early autumn, a lightweight printed jacket by "ROUGHRIDER, by Circle T"--purchased at a Flea Market in Taos, is being worn with a leather skirt and "Panhandle Slim" boots. (Photo by Ed Curley)
Ready for a night of dancing, Liberty sports a sheer, ruffled Salsa skirt from the Ukraine teamed up with a Spanish style crocheted ruffle blouse and an elegant chain-metal collar necklace. Boots complete the ensemble.
An amazing find! Sarah poses for a "Skirt Shot" of this spectacular sheer cotton, homemade, two-piece dress with seventy-eight rows of lavender, white, purple and pink ric-rac teamed with a fascinating zig-zag braid. The combination reminds me of an Escher painting when teamed with the design on the rug.
NOW THAT'S A SOMBRERO! Emelina is smashing in this silk embroidered top from "ECI, New York" teamed with a silver belt, black pants and astonishing shoes. One could ride into battle with Pancho Villa in that amazing sombrero.
Close-up of the Vila Fideral 11, Cardenas sombrero with extremely hard and tightly woven straw and a corded hat band.
AN AMAPOLA SKIRT! Sisi poses in this delightful summer skirt with a cheerful poppy pattern. She teamed it with a flowing Orange blouse and gold jewelry for a breezy, fresh, warm weather look.
In winter, I am posing at the Indigo Crow in Corrales. NM in a heavy-weight, narrow-wale. corduroy two-piece, full-circle skirted dress with black and white ric-rac and braid. This cozy ensemble by "Thunderbird Fashions, Prescott, Arizona" is worn with a silver belt, shell jewelry and a Charro hat. VERY WARM, BUT NOT VERY PRETTY Three stars*** (Photo by Waymon Whittemore0Raphael cuts a dashing figure in this woven vest with silver buttons. We suspect that it might be the work of Tarascan Indian weavers from Mexico whose work is often inspired by the designs of the Rio Grande Weavers of Chimayo and other places along the river. He tops it off with a cowboy hat and silver belt buckle on a leather belt.
His sister, Angelica is a study in muted shades of maroon and purple! She is wearing another beautifully embroidered top by the Otomi Indians of Mexico with a full-circle peasant skirt, Silver jewelry completes the look.
At Spanish Market, this year I wore a singelton three-tiered, full-circle skirt from the Gonzales gift to the collection teamed with a beautifully beaded China Poblana blouse from Mexico and a woven floral belt. I am also carrying a wonderful woven suitcase-purse with yarn embroidery from Mexico to make it look like I am carrying lots of money and capable of buying whatever I want! (Waymon Whittemore Photo)
At lunch, this photo shows, in more detail, the intricacies of the beaded roses. Because of all the embellishment. this blouse is surprisingly heavy. I am also wearing a Red Heart Milagro Pendant by Spanish Market Artist Terrie Rodriguez that I purchased a the Winter Market. (Whittemore photo)
This homemade skirt, although rather simple with only thin silver braid embellishment, really makes quite a statement! It is full circled on black cotton and gives the impression of rippling waves.. Jenny teamed it with a Mariachi jacket with white painted floral designs from "Clarissa Cassandra" and silver jewelry.Outside Tomasitas #2 in Albuquerque, I am wearing a light brown, raincloth, homemade, two-piece. full-circle skirted, Fiesta dress with turquoise and white ric-rac and braid. This dress is meticulously crafted even including whale boning on the waistband to be sure it stands up full length, Most Fiesta/squaw/patio dress patterns include provisions for a design on the waistband as part of the overall design, However, most Santa Fe girls like to wear their silver or gold concha belts with them and being that the waists are so tiny on the older dresses, a belt helps cover any manipulations attempted to add a few inches. Three Stars *** (Waymon Whittemore photo).
Our final presentation in this year's listing is this blue satin and black lace dress topped with a striking Zapotec woven shawl and a rabbit felt Gaucho hat, Photographed in the chapel at El Rancho de las Golondrinas.
Now for some extra odds and ends from the photoshoot and from my 14th year of adding to The Capshaw Collection: ETCETERA!Another view of Alice at Buffalo Thunder.....
Oh yes, they do also have gambling at Buffalo Thunder, but no photos are allowed in the casino......
Trying her very hardest to please Grannie--love this girl!
Fiesta lovers, one and all!
Some of the magic of Zozobra night--our all female mariachis in the back and Renata being carried in dance.......
The models are lined up like planes on the tarmac in the lobby of the resort......
"One of these things is not like the others"......
The temperature rises when Emelina steps onto the dancefloor at Francesca's Zozobra Dance Party......
I had a hard time deciding which photo to use of Sarah in this dress.......
A SIN? Really?...................
"We love Great-Grandma Alice!'