Thursday, August 10, 2023

The Capshaw Collection of Fine Fiestawear--Addendum 13, 2023 

It's time again to record this year's additions of Fiesta dresses, Squaw dresses, and Mexican, Spanish, Native American and Southwest fashions--all ready to wear for Fiesta de Santa Fe 2023! (Photo by Waymon Whittemore at the Spanish Colonial Museum, Santa Fe, NM)


Out on the llano near Taos.... Diana in a buckskin shirt by AUTHENTIC ST. JOHN'S BAY and a silk tiered skirt by HARISTON-ROBERTS ROPA, HECHO EN MEXICO with a Zuni inlay owl necklace, silver belt and cowboy hat. (Photo by Ed Curley) 

Sisi goes full Senorita in a lovely black lace ruffled skirt by PENELOPE AND MONICA CRUZ worn with a silver belt, satin and lace top, and a lace mantilla and comb.

 
Bianca rocks a traditional DESERT FLOWER ORIGINALS, ALBUQUERQUE, NM cotton raincloth Two piece dress with gold, brown and burgundy ric-rac and gold braid that I purchased at the estate sale of my friend, Theresa Armijo's aunt.  Thanks, Theresa, for enabling me to acquire this dress for the collection!  For including all the traditional accoutrements including ric-rac and braid down the sleeve that is not visible and a full-circle skirt, this dress rates a full five stars. ***** (Only true "Squaw"\Fiesta dresses are rated.) 

Our cover shot outfit is this gorgeous handmade full-circle cotton skirt with scads of silver and white ric-rac and braid worn with Robert Yellowhorse jewelry, a silver belt, a Tommy Hilfiger blouse and a John Boulton hat.(Photo by Waymon Whittemore taken at the Spanish Colonial Museum on the porch of one of their Tarascan Indian huts.)
A big "Thank you!" to Dhrett Baca and his staff at the New Mexico State Capitol for allowing us to have our annual "super photoshoot" in the confines of the beautiful Capitol Building and for all his help--and that of his staff--with logistics.  Here, Sarah models in front on what seemed to be everybody's favorite exhibit in the vast art collection of the State Capitol--an amazing Buffalo Head comprised of curious and inventive found objects!  She is wearing a vintage handpainted velvet Mexican skirt.  This skirt is in amazing condition with all the painting still vibrant and all the sequins still intact.  She paired it with a sequined painted top and velvet sombrero--all HECHO EN MEXICO!
Another handpainted Mexican skirt, this time on heavy cotton by CADILLAC ORIGINALS with a FASHIONED BY DENDAHL'S, SANTA FE, NM velvet Navajo style top.
Miss Chiara is quite fetching in this quite tiny-sized handmade bi-tone, two-piece raincloth dress with gold and brown ric-rac and gold braid.  She accented it with gold jewelry and belt as well as a gold Corona from Oaxaca, Mexico.  Because this dress is a bit skimpy and the skirt is not a full circle--four stars!***( Photo in Old Town, Albuquerque NM)
A Southwestern woven drape by ARTFUL ARTISAN, ALBUQUERQUE. is worn with lapis and silver jewelry and a cowboy hat.
Rachel is resplendent in this 1960s bright red dress by JEANETTE'S SOUTHWEST, KEE KI LEE, ALBUQUERQUE.  This full circle, shorter, two-piece dress in heavy cotton with white and red ric-rac and red and gold braid is made with an almost wrinkle-free and brilliantly colored fabric..  She tops it off with a scarlet Oaxacan corona.  A resplendent five stars ***** 
A FAYE CREATIONS beautiful two-piece dress with a full circle skirt from the 1950s is presented here in Classic styling!  This cotton raincloth dress is unusual in that it sports several sizes of white ric-rac and braid, but none of it is metallic.  Pictured here at the Santuario de Chimayo, it rates a full five stars: *****  (Photo by Angela Rubino)
Remember that tiny little model, Renata, who was so shy and reluctant to model Fiesta clothes?  Well, she is now a totally competent and eager junior model who shines in this lovely tiered dress with blue ric-rac and black and silver braid, that I suspect had been hand made for a youthful member of the Queen of the Santa Fe Fiesta's court. As her banner states, she is always the Reina around our house!
A rather skimpy tri-color two piece raincloth handmade dress is modeled on Museum Hill to entertain the Apache Dancer. It has a paucity of silver ric-rac, a less than full skirt, but a top to die for that can be used with other fashions *** (Photo by Waymon Whittemore)
Another sometimes shy young model is our precious Leona!  She is wearing a handmade cotton Pueblo dress with MINNETANKA moccasins. shell jewelry, and a Oaxacan corona. She has definitely announced her presence!
Come Christmas time, the navy blue Navajo velvets are teamed up with a furry Russian hat and silver jewelry.  This top was fashioned by INDIAN MARKET BY ALFREDO'S WIFE.

When Miss Mariana visited from Berlin, she modeled this JEANETTE'S ORIGINALS, ALBUQUERQUE two-piece, cotton, full-circle skirt outfit at the Ranchos de Taos Church.. The outfit features turquoise ric-rac and white and turquoise braid.  However, the emphasis is on the ruffles. ***. 

Coming out of the Corrales Church after confessing my many sins, I am wearing a hand painted Mexican original two-piece dress from the 1950s.  It is splashed with gold paint and hand-painted Aztec designs.  I am wearing gold jewelry and a Pigale Sombrero, and the most wonderful thing about this outfit is that it has pockets!  


Bianca is a vision of color in this hand-painted, but unsigned Mexican postcard skirt.  The waistband had been removed, so no maker's tag was available.  She teamed the skirt with a bright pink peasant blouse and a burnt-out velvet shawl.  In the past, we had taken several mother-daughter photos of Bianca and her oldest daughter ,Renata. and I had purchased a small postcard skirt hoping to get a mother-daughter photo with Leona--however......
The mini-postcard skirt was too big for Leona, and the ever increasingly confident Renata stole the show with this pose! She is wearing the skirt with a peasant blouse, gold filigree jewelry and a yellow Oaxacan corona! (Not to mention her Pride face sticker that lasted almost a week.)
Close up of the smaller skirt--a romantic image of a Mexican lady bidding "Adios" to her Charro--maybe he is off to join the Zapatistas......( The backside is the same basic image in different colors.)

Double your pleasure, double your fun!  with this dual pose including a toy iguana for good measure!

A local Santa Fe Auction is the setting for this pose featuring a handmade tiered skirt and blouse, Zuni jewelry, a Bailey U-rolit hat, and Tony Lama boots. (Photo by Waymon Whittemore)

Sisi has her Mexican vibe on as she models this embroidered skirt and blouse from Oaxaca and elaborate beaded jewelry from the same. This photo was taken along the highway overlook of the Chama River.
Flipping the huipil over shows another aspect of the garment

This year I purchased several dresses from the estate of a Mrs. Neiman who wore these dresses in the 1950s.  Here Jenny models a small-print, two-piece dress with black ric-rac and braid.  the highly pleated, full-circle skirt has a teeny-tiny waist that only a few modern women can wear!  It is now part of Jenny's personal collection. ****
This unusual purple and yellow raincloth skirt was found at the Chelsea Flea market in New York City!  I teamed it with a Navajo-style cotton shirt.
Close-up of the multi-stone, multi colored jewelry in the previous photo.  The necklaces were gifts from my late husband and the earrings were designed by Dwight Capshaw and crafted by a Native American artisan as a later gift.

Chiara lights up the Taos Plaza with her beautiful smile as she exits the Taos La Fonda Hotel!  She is wearing a PATRICIA WOLF, MADE IN TEXAS fringe skirt and a vintage NEW MEXICO FUR COMPANY, ALBUQUERQUE soft leather fringed jacket.  The JOHN BOULTON hat completes the look.
At Fiesta time, a very special longer homemade skirt with many rows of white and silver ric-rac and braid is teamed with a ROZ AND ALI loose embroidered top, Day-of-the-Dead jewelry and matching corona to create a more Oaxacan Fiesta look.
On the grounds of the State Capitol, Sarah teams a Roberto Campos Otomi Indian embroidered skirt from her own collection with an elaborately embroidered lace Mexican peasant top and corona.

Pristine before some beautiful Retablo art at the State Capitol, Bianca models a handmade, two-piece, raincloth, full-circle, two-piece dress from the Neiman estate.  It features silver and white ric-rac and braid.***
Winter in Taos once again features the teaming of Fiesta attire with furry Russian Hats.  This highly pleated JEANETTE'S ORIGINALS, ALBUQUERQUE skirt is ever so full!  The jewelry is Santo Domingo beaded. (Photo by Chiara DiPalma)
Also from the Neiman Estate, is this totally feminine black and white lace two-piece ensemble.  Sarah provides a fascinating black and white tableau standing before some of the artwork in the collection of the NM State Capitol.
Out on the highway, Keeks totally glams up this homemade, full-circle, raincloth skirt festooned with gold and cream ric-rac and braid.  This is totally the way to stop traffic.
An outfit for Spanish Market that absolutely looked better in conception than in reality.....this handpainted postcard skirt from Mexico features bullfight scenes and is teamed with an Otomi embroidered blouse.  Neither piece had any maker's tags. (Photo by Bethany Pino)

A "come hither" look from Sylvia adds to the beauty of this dusty-silk two-piece set donated to the Collection by my friend Marsha Reindorf.  A bright pink rose and the JOHN BOULTON hat complete the ensemble.
Painting a perfect Mid-Century tableau, Rachel graces the NM State Capitol Art Collection with this elaborately patterned homemade heavy cotton two piece dress.  Despite some problems with the waistband on the skirt, this dress is so unique and so beautifully decorated, it deserves the full five star rating!*****
Inside the Hotel St, Francis, Another highly ric-raced and silver braided homemade skirt is mated with a BLACK MARKET, MADE BY ALFREDO'S WIFE velvet top and Charles Johnson Jewelry. (Photo by Ed Curley)
Close-up of the beaded hatband on the felt hat that is currently all the rage with Native American fashions. (Photo by Ed Curley)
The N.M. State Capitol Art Collection never looked hotter than with Miss Jenny in this full length, multi-tiered skirt with a matching shawl also featuring the identical braid and pockets.  Jenny wore it with a bandeau top, but the set also has a matching halter top.  Because it is not a full-circle skirt and the size is so incredibly tiny, I rated it as four stars.****
You've heard of the" Pottery House" in Santa Fe, well--here is the Pottery Skirt!  This MARTE DE MEXICO handpainted postcard skirt is teamed with a TORRID peasant blouse with matching embroidery. The final element is the MARIACHI, HECHO EN MEXICO sombrero
A colorful weaving at the Capitol is the perfect backdrop for this outfit featuring a skirt and hat donated to the collection by Marci Kilgore who loving cared for her aging Aunt and Uncle and wanted to donate their well-loved Fiesta clothes to be enjoyed once more after both of their passing.  Her aunt's skirt is a combination of velvet and denim with colorful braid and Sylvia teamed it with a matching peasant blouse and added a festive flower to Marci's uncle's BAILEY U-ROLIT hat.
Beside another colorful Capitol painting, Jenny goes Vera Cruz style with a lace skirt, blouse and shawl and a Frieda Kahlo pattern fancy apron. A festive floral crown completes the picture.
Standing before a painting of the Old Capitol in the rotunda of the New Capitol, Diana sports this distinctive handpainted, full length skirt depicting "The Snake Dance" by AREY TEXTILES, HECHO EN MEXICO  and signed by Emilio Arey. The skirt features gold  and copper metallic paint and is worn with a copper belt and copper jewelry by Rebajes.
This is one fantastic dress!  This full-circle two-piece cotton dress by DESERT FLOWER, ALBUQUERQUE has all the bells and whistles.  It is festooned with silver and white ric-rac and braid and is beautifully pleated!  Full rating--five Stars!***** (Photo by Ed Curley)
Frieda would be proud!  Both by the choice of painting for the background  and Sarah's pizzazz in wearing this Otomi embroidered blouse and Frieda inspired print skirt--all with a matching corona. 


At Monte Sagrado Hotel in Taos, this autumnal outfit features a RALPH LAUREN JEANS CO Southwestern design jacket with an INTERNATIONAL CONCEPTS tiered suede skirt. (Photo by Gloria Mier) 

One of my personal favorite fiesta dresses, Chiara looks great in this handmade raincloth, two-piece- full-circle skirt outfit.  The white, red and black ric-rac and braid are designed in such a unique pattern, I was surprised not to find a professional maker's tag.,  She is wearing Santo Domingo Thunderbird jewelry and a "Billy Jack" hat.*****
This singelton skirt has been shown before, but not with this perfect vintage satin top that picks up the pinkish sheen of the copper brain and ric-rac.  Thanks, Jenny!
This lovely ROJA velvet top with embroidery and long fringe is teamed with a Chiapas style embroidered skirt and a pink corona--just the perfect thing to wear to your local ruins.....
Reality resembles art!  Rachel models a fabulous Mexican handpainted skirt featuring lots of sequins and an undulating pattern while, at the same time, appearing to have stepped right out of the NM Capitol artwork!  A splash of red completes the picture.
Again from the Neiman collection, Sarah uses a "skirt shot" to demonstrate the fullness and lovely pleats of this black and white skirt that is silk-screened with Native American  style butterflies.  A black and white ruffled lace blouse and a festive sombrero complete the outfit.

Close-up of the butterfly design.....

This is the last new addition for this year, but it is really a gem!  This truly fantastic PHOENIX MARGA ORIGINALS two-piece, raincloth, bi-color, full-circle skirted, design is resplendent with black, white and silver ric-rac and braid.  I would like to thank the vendor for including some additional vintage information on the shop where it was originally purchased and also to thank the woman from whose estate this dress came from  for being a "normal sized woman" with proportions that make the dress accessible to many different shapes of ladies. ***** (Photo by Bethany Pino)

This is the material sent with the dress about Porters Store in Phoenix.  I get the impression it was at one time the largest Indian Goods store in town.  The use of the word "squaw" is now considered to be very inappropriate and even hurtful, but at the time that was the term used to describe these dresses.
 
Now for the fun part of the posting--out takes and other tid-bits from a year of collecting:

This dress was originally shown in Year One on my beautiful baby girl--Binky
Because of her hair it was not readily noticeable that it was a bi-color dress with this tan color at the neckline (photo at the State Fair with dear Dwight--Photo by Kim Kelly)
Well, this year, we noticed that the matching tan border along the bottom had been hemmed up and once released, it made a much more complete bi-color design and a longer length dress for an aging lady.  (at 2022 Indian Market) Photo by Waymon Whittemore
A study in black and white....
An attempt at a sepia vintage postcard....(Photo by Angela Rubino on the Chimayo Plaza)
Everybody LOVES the buffalo!
"What's black and white and red allover?"  (Besides the newspaper!  Of course the "read" for "red" only works when the riddle is spoken.) (Or the less savory:" A nun falling down the staircase") (Or the more political:  a Panda in Communist China)

Bianca and her "Mini-Me"
Will Shuster's Zozobra mural that used to be in El Nido is now part of the New Mexico Capitol Art Collection.
.
Popping up in Taos....
Double your trouble....
    TAKE YOUR DAUGHTER TO WORK DAY--Old Town, Albuquerque, NM

Yes, she is sometimes the center of the universe.....
Capitol grounds.....

"There's a new gunslinger in town!"--Chiara does HIGH NOON in Ranchos de Taos.......

Someone got photo bombed...
Jenny as styled by Renata....
The tall and small of modeling....
This shot of Keeks at Abiquiu Lake reminds me of many old NEW MEXICO MAGAZINE covers.....
What good is Fiesta unless a girl can twirl!

The next generation!

Contemplating the art in the NM Capitol Collection......



Sun worshiper....

Thanks to all da girls for all da fun!


If you are interested in seeing all of the collection, follow this link to Year One and continue following the links at the bottom of each progressing posting.


QUE VIVA LA FIESTA DE SANTA FE!

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